We were in Kauai for the first time a few weeks ago. I slipped away from the pool for a few minutes to take pictures of surfers at the beach by our hotel. (It was a heck of a lot warmer shooting these guys than it was shooting the kiteboarders at Whidbey Island a few months ago...)
The surfers would all race toward the water, throw their board in, and then jump onto them to get going.
The best guys would carve up and down the wave faces, plowing in and above the curling water.
But almost invariably, they'd wipe out and then do it again.
I'd love to learn to surf sometime, but taking photos of them was pretty cool. There was a guy in the water with them shooting with a GoPro. That looks like fun too.
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